Introduction
The seaside city of Cartagena is a vibrant and lively place. Situated on the shores of the Caribbean Sea, the founding of the present city dates back to 1533 by Spanish conquistador, Pedro de Heredia. During the colonial era, it was known as Cartagena de Indias. A major port city, Cartagena is the gateway to Colombia.
Located just ten degrees North of the equator at sea level, Cartagena is a tropical city. Hot and humid conditions are the norm. High winds exist most winter months balancing out the intense daytime heat nicely. The summer and fall seasons produce rainy and very humid conditions.
The historic city center neighborhood, Centro, is surrounded by eleven kilometers of fortified stone walls. Visitors are welcome to stroll atop the historic walls and enjoy views of the city and sea. The walls are a favorite place to watch the sunset for both locals and visitors alike.
Cartagena is a walking city. The Centro and Getsemani neighborhoods are easily navigated in a matter of hours. Over the course of our most recent stay, we traversed both neighborhoods frequently with ease. Should you want to visit the Miami-esque neighborhood of Bocagrande, or the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, the City Sightseeing hop-on-hop-off buses provide an easy solution with reasonable two-day passes.
Remarkable churches and colonial buildings grace the narrow streets of the walled city. The adjacent neighborhood of Getsemani possesses blocks of street art, hip coffee houses, restaurants, and bars. Should you have the opportunity to visit this seaside city, be sure not to miss some of the fantastic places listed below.
Doors of Cartagena
Walking around the historic Centro, one immediately notices a plethora of highly ornate door knockers or aldabas decorating large wooden doors. Most of these magnificent doors are studded with custom-designed clavos, making each grand entrance a work of art. The largest wooden doors often contain a wicket gate to help control air flow through the buildings from the interior open-air courtyards.
Dating back to colonial times, large wooden doors and unique aldabas were status symbols. The size and type of material were indicative of wealth and social status. Although more symbolic in current times, a most enjoyable activity is walking through the city in search of the most stunning and unique aldabas.
Various motifs represented specific professions of the occupants. Lizards illustrated royalty or a connection to royalty, while a lion’s head conveyed a military background or guardian of the city. Maritime motifs were used by sea merchants and fishermen. The clergy would often utilize knockers fashioned in the shape of folded hands on their homes.
Taking a walk through the narrow streets of the historic district allows one to discover the rich history of this beautiful city.
Architecture of Cartagena
As in many cities around the world, some of the most remarkable architecture exists in the grand cathedrals. However, a mixture of the classical orders is exhibited throughout all historic buildings in Cartagena. Spanish Colonial architecture is on full display throughout this stunning city.
Arches with keystones are a major recurring motif. Enthusiasts will enjoy identifying voluted keystones, quatrefoil windows, open and broken pediments, fluted and unfluted columns, Corinthian capitals, Doric entablatures, shell-headed niches containing statues, acroteria, dentil bands, modillions, and ornate corbels. Many exterior walls feature Colombian Coral Stone with Ashlar masonry.
Building interiors also feature highly ornate details such as egg-and-dart patterns, bead and reel, coffered ceilings with rosettes, and acanthus patterns. The Teatro Heredia, on the North end of the city, is an exquisite example.
Aside from the superb cathedrals, the vividly colored colonial homes with wooden beam cantilevered balconies are also a sight to behold. Bright hues of yellows, oranges, reds, blues, and pinks are found throughout the narrow city streets and alleyways. This vibrancy is sure to leave a lasting impression.
Churches of Cartagena
Iglesia de San Pedro Claver - located on the Plaza de San Pedro Claver, this immense church was built between 1580 and 1654. The massive yellow dome and twin bell towers make it a most recognizable landmark in the old walled city. Named after Spanish Jesuit priest and missionary, Peter Claver, this church is not to be missed. A museum and open-air atrium with tropical flora are worth touring. The plaza itself features a series of unique metal art sculptures to enjoy.
Catedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandría - located in the center of the historic walled city lies the most remarkable basilica in Cartagena. The superlative red and yellow bell tower is one of the most iconic structures in the city. The church sits on the northeast corner of the Plaza de Bolívar. It was built between 1577 and 1612, making it one of the oldest episcopal sees in the Americas. The bell tower and dome were most recently refurbished in the early twentieth century by French architect Gastón Lelarge. The main entrance features fluted Corinthian columns, shell-headed niches with statues, and stone pinnacles.
Iglesia de Santo Domingo - reportedly the oldest church in Cartagena, the building began as a convent for friars of the Dominican Order. Positioned along the West side of the Plaza de Santo Domingo, the interior showcases many beautiful stained-glass windows and sculpted alters. The main entrance features a gigantic stone arch with a voluted keystone, numerous shell-headed wall niches, a Doric entablature, and broken pediment. Colored with a bright orange exterior, supported by coral stone buttresses, this building is a fantastic site to visit.
Iglesia de Santo Toribio - a smaller, lesser-known, church in the northernmost portion of the historic walled city is situated at the northwest corner of the Plaza Fernández Madrid. As construction began in 1666, it was the last church erected during the colonial period. This quaint church features a Spanish mission-style espadaña or bell-gable with twin bells. Interior highlights of this beautiful church include the highly ornate wooden ceiling featuring various inlays and the mosaic-tiled floor.
Rooftops of Cartagena
One of my favorite pastimes is searching for rooftop establishments to enjoy sweeping panoramic views of a city. In Cartagena, it also provides a great environment for a close encounter with the highly vocal, Yellow-crowned amazon parrots. We found early morning, just before sunrise, to be the best time for birdwatching.
Photographing a city from above allows one to isolate fantastic details often unseen from street level. High above the traffic and street noise, rooftops provide a most relaxing setting to end the day watching the sunset while enjoying a libation or meal.
Fortunately, Cartagena is full of roof top bars and restaurants; perfect for viewing the city from above. Here are a few of our favorite rooftop venues:
Movich Hotel Cartagena de Indias - centrally located in the heart of the historic walled city, the hotel has a rooftop terrace offering unobstructed panoramic views across the city. This is a favorite place to enjoy Caribbean-inspired bites and cocktails while the day turns to night. Between the very friendly staff and extraordinary views, I cannot recommend this venue enough.
La Jugada Club & Daisy the Rooftop - this art deco styled gastropub and rooftop bar serves up delicious foodstuffs and libations in a chic atmosphere. Centrally located, this establishment is not to be missed during your stay. A pink flamingo and jungle motif, along with crystal chandeliers and oversized flamingo statues creates a fun environment for an evening out on the town.
Mirador Gastro Bar - sitting high above the Plaza de Los Coches, this great lunch or dinner spot looks directly over the plaza below and famous Monumento Torre del Reloj clock tower. Fresh seafood dishes, ceviche, and other Caribbean-inspired dishes are delectable. An array of refreshing gastropub inspired cocktails are available to help quench ones thirst from the heat of the day.
Lastly, many boutique hotels in the historic city have their own private rooftop terraces. If a chaise lounge and small pool are all that you require, most accommodations in this area provide great options. Before retiring each evening, we enjoyed relaxing under the stars on the rooftop terrace of our hotel.
Amazing Places to Stay
Many boutique hotels exist within the historic walled city. Designed after Roman atrium houses, most of these retreats include lush open-air courtyards draped in vines, private relaxation pools, and rooftop terraces. A few of our favorites include:
Hotel Casa La Fe - situated along the West side of Plaza Fernández de Madrid in the northern portion of the historic walled city, this 15-bedroom boutique hotel is a beautifully restored colonial building ideal for your sojourn. A peach and white color palette welcomes guests with an interior atrium featuring a wall garden, window boxes, and niche water fountains. A dual-level rooftop terrace provides guests fantastic views of the historic city. A small, blue-tiled pool and bar are available for guests enjoying the rooftop.
Leones de Alba Hotel Boutique - this 10-bedroom hotel offers guests one of the most tranquil courtyards with a small golden-tiled pool. Luxuriant vines drape down three stories encircling the courtyard. A multi-tiered rooftop terrace offers sweeping views across the city. The highest level consists of a small table for two, perfect for enjoying a morning cup of coffee.
Aguamarina Hotel Boutique - next door to the Leones de Alba is another beautifully eclectic boutique hotel. Decorated in a Southeast Asian motif, a bright turquoise and white color palette accents the luxuriously sculpted wooden furniture throughout. A sun-kissed rooftop terrace includes a turquoise-tiled pool, hand-carved wooden sunbeds and lounge chairs, and multiple Buddha statues creating an exceptionally relaxing environment for guests.
Casa Diluca Hotel Boutique - this magnificent 8-bedroom hotel is centrally located within the walled city and its design is based on the beach houses of the Italian Riviera. A highlight of this property is the star-lit swimming pool which adorns the rooftop terrace. This property allows one of the closest views of the bell tower of the Cathedral Santa Catalina. This hotel is the perfect place for a relaxing getaway.
Movich Hotel Cartagena De Indias - located at the southern end of the historic district, this exquisite boutique hotel is home to one of the most fantastic rooftop terraces in the city. A small pool and jacuzzi adorn the tri-level terrace for the enjoyment of guests. The Movich is the only hotel in the city that holds the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the World designation. It also boasts one of the best overlooks of the yellow-domed Santuario de San Pedro Claver backdropped with the upmarket neighborhood of Bocagrande off in the distance.
Favorite Eats
Cartagena is full of eateries ranging from small cafes to fine dining establishments. A few of our favorites include:
Porton de San Sebastian - this cozy establishment serves amazing locally inspired fare in a quaint setting. The staff make everyone feel like family and the experience led our group to dine here twice over the course of our five-day stay. Huge portions and superb flavors await each guest.
Café San Alberto - our favorite coffee shop within the historic Centro of Cartagena. Phenomenal espresso, coffee, waffles, and pastries provide the perfect start to your morning. The café sits on the Plaza de Santo Domingo.
Casa Cruxada - directly across the street from Café San Alberto sits one of our absolute favorite lunch spots. Casa Cruxada consists of three different establishments in one building. The White Patio serves up fire-roasted pizzas and sandwiches, as well as a superlative garlic white wine shrimp casserole. The White Patio is set inside the interior open-air courtyard of this historic building.
San Mateo Restauante & Bar - was another of our favorite dinner establishments. The appetizers, entrées, and cocktails were most enjoyable. Exposed wooden beams, white washed walls, and colorful artwork adorn the space.
Mila Pasteleria - is an incredible dessert and pastry shop that exists in the historic city. An abundance of delectable home-made desserts await any visitor on a quest for something sweet.
Ábaco Libros y Café - one of the best spots to take a mid-day break from walking the historic city is the famous Ábaco bookshop and café. Great coffee and pastries accompany a vast selection of books, guides, photographs, and postcards for sale. We visited this particular establishment multiple times during our most recent stay.
Best of Getsemani
The colorful and artistic neighborhood of Getsemani has become a favorite place for visitors to stroll. This small neighborhood sits adjacent to the historic walled city. A short 10-minute walk from the Monumento Torre del Reloj clock tower, this neighborhood is well worth exploring.
The Café del Mural is one of our favorite coffee shops in Cartagena. Sitting along the most enjoyable walking street, Calle de San Juan, this coffee shop is a great place to refuel before exploring the neighborhood. Be sure not to miss the aldaba of the Casa del Torro just up the street! This street, in particular, is home to many local artists selling their artwork.
The Plaza de la Trinidad is a great central point for exploring the neighborhood. Iglesia de la Santísima Trinidad is a beautiful church worth viewing. A quaint and colorful café, Tenderete, sits along the eastern side of the church and serves delightful pastries and espresso. Local artwork adorns the walls.
Calle 29 is home to the famous, blue and white arched doorway at 10-42. Street art exists along this entire corridor. A few blocks South on the Plaza del Pozo, Basilica Pizzeria Café has one of our favorite murals of a man in a rocking chair reading the newspaper.
Two of the most colorful and festive streets are Calle 27 & Carrera 10c. Colorful umbrellas cover the length above Calle 27, while rows of kites and flags adorn Carrera 10c. The blue and white facade of Casa Evelyn, at 27-03 Carrera 10c, is full of bright yellow butterflies. Both streets are full of murals.
The majority of this charming neighborhood can be discovered in half a day, but we enjoyed strolling the art-lined streets on numerous occasions during our stay.
Conclusion
Should you ever find yourself in this part of the world, Cartagena is not to be missed. The gateway to Colombia, this beautiful city is full of history and remarkable places. Friendly people, great restaurants, rooftop views, and stunning architecture await visitors. With something for everyone to enjoy, the vibrant colors of this tropical city are sure to leave a lasting impression long after your visit concludes.
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